The safest way to grow it is to keep your eucalyptus outdoors, on a patio or balcony, and bring it inside (to a winter garden or cool hallway) as soon as there is a risk of frost.

We don't really recommend it as a houseplant. Only if you have a very sunny apartment. It definitely won't thrive next to a TV with barely any natural light, or next to a fireplace or other heat source.

Eucalyptus will grow into a lush shrub and brighten up a summer patio, but don't expect it to replace an oak tree in your yard. The eucalyptus we grow does not have a mature root system, and it won't become a massive tree. If you buy a small eucalyptus from us in May, it will look similar to the large one by August.

We'd like to manage expectations right from the start — eucalyptus is for advanced gardeners. If you're just starting out, stick to this guide; it will be easy through the summer, the eucalyptus will grow like crazy, and then at the start of autumn, everything might start to go wrong... Even so, it will bring you joy during the summer, smell wonderful, and you can snip a sprig for a vase or dry it now and then.

From May to September/October, it will grow like crazy. It grows incredibly fast outdoors during the summer, doubling in size in just a few months. As soon as autumn arrives, bringing shorter days, less light, and lower temperatures, the eucalyptus will stop growing.

Prepare yourself: it won't grow at all during the winter, not even a little bit. It might survive, but you'll likely spend your time diagnosing one problem after another — an edema from high humidity here, some wilting there—it’s a depressing period. But don't worry, as soon as the days start getting longer and there's more light, the eucalyptus will wake up, and you'll see new shoots. At that point, you're an advanced gardener because you’ve successfully overwintered your eucalyptus.

Even though we overwinter eucalyptus on the farm, we prefer to warn you that it's challenging, and you should be prepared for a scenario where you fail to overwinter it. It can just dry out overnight. You might not even notice it, and you won't even know exactly why — whether you under-watered or over-watered it. It just turns into a biscuit.

Sunny, full sun, as much sun as possible. At our farm, we keep the eucalyptus on a plot where the sun beats down all day, and we even use black landscape fabric underneath to boost the heat. So, choose the sunniest spot in your garden for the eucalyptus.

You can use regular garden soil based on peat or the common soil you have in your garden as potting substrate. Mix the substrate with sand in a 1:4 ratio (i.e., one part sand to four parts soil). The sand ensures that the substrate is well-drained and prevents the eucalyptus from rotting.

We recommend gradually repotting the eucalyptus into larger pots. If you order a small eucalyptus from us, it will arrive in a 7×7 cm pot. The first thing you should do is repot it into a slightly larger one. Don't repot it into a giant container immediately.

Before your eucalyptus grows strong, we recommend providing it with some support. We use bamboo stakes and simply tie the eucalyptus to them.

Only water the pot once the substrate has dried out completely. However, be careful — eucalyptus can survive in dry conditions for barely 4–8 days before it won't recover. Watering requires a delicate balance; the eucalyptus cannot stand in water, but it also cannot withstand completely dry soil.

The best method is bottom watering — placing the pot in a saucer. The plant will absorb only what it needs, and you can pour out any excess water from the saucer.

During the summer, we water our eucalyptus once a week using drip irrigation, where water drips directly to the roots for 1–2 hours. In winter, while we overwinter the eucalyptus in our heated greenhouse, we reduce the frequency of watering to about once every 2–4 weeks. It is always necessary to check that it isn't standing in water.

You can fertilize the eucalyptus from April to August, ideally once a week.

Do not fertilize eucalyptus with nitrogen; instead, choose a fertilizer with a higher potassium (K) content. Among organic fertilizers, you can use, for example, ProKton or Free PK. For synthetic fertilizers, choose Kristalon Fruit & Flower, or any other fertilizer where the K content is dominant in the composition. Kristalon Fruit & Flower has an NPK composition of 15-5-30, meaning there is twice as much potassium (K).

Fertilizers always show their composition and the ratio of NPK elements: N is nitrogen, P is phosphorus, and K is potassium. The composition can be stated as, for example, “19-6-20”, which means it contains 19 parts N, 6 parts P, and 20 parts K. If you are looking for a fertilizer with increased potassium, the third number (K) should be twice as large as the remaining two (N and P). The aforementioned Kristalon Fruit & Flower has twice as much potassium (K).